PUPPY MANUAL
On this page, you will find our complete Puppy Manual as it is given to each of our customers when they leave with their Shewana Shepherd. This Puppy Manual provides extremely valuable information! It has been compiled over the years, and it is the best advice the owners and staff of Shewana Shepherds can offer to help raise a happy and healthy German Shepherd Dog.
The first year of growth for your puppy is vital. Your dog will gain a substantial amount of weight and size. As such, it is extremely important that you carefully watch the progress of your puppy during this period of time. However, it is essential to remember that a German Shepherd is still developing well after their first year. Therefore, you should continue to follow the guidelines presented here, or consult us if you intend to make any changes.
Lastly, it is important to remember that a puppy is a living, breathing animal. Hence, you should treat it with love, respect and patience. We are certain that if you do so, you will have a friendship and loyalty from your dog that is second to none. After all...it is a Shewana Shepherd!
THE SHEWANA SHEPHERDS
PUPPY MANUAL
INDEX
"Congratulations on the selection of your new puppy !"
Dear Buyer,
Welcome to the family of Shewana Shepherds. There are hundreds of us who have been blessed to have the opportunity to live with some of the finest German Shepherd Dogs ever born. It is our goal to provide classic German Shepherds from proven breeding stock. We do not breed for competition or the show ring and we do not breed for aggressive bite work. There are a lot of other breeders who specialize in those types of dogs.
The puppy that you have selected will grow up to become a treasured member of your family. This does, however, require some effort on your part. We have provided you with a great pup. You need to nurture and love your puppy. This means taking the responsibility of being a good pet owner. If you do your part, you will be rewarded a thousand fold.
I know that you and your family are very excited about bringing your new puppy home. Please take time in the midst of that excitement to read the information and instructions we have prepared for you. It is very important that your pup’s first experiences with you are positive! When you read your Puppy Manual & The Shewana Experience, you will learn how vital it is for you to follow the tips you have been given.
Should you have any questions, please feel free to call one of our “help lines”! These numbers can be found on the CONTACT US PAGE. We have a lot of experience and really would rather answer your questions than to have you making a wrong decision based on some “old wives tale” or the advice from a well-meaning friend. If you leave a message, e-mail, or fax us, we will get back to you as fast as we can. If you feel that your situation is an emergency, then you should certainly contact your veterinarian. If not, wait to hear from us and continue to follow the instructions in your handouts. Do not make changes!
We hope that your visit to our kennel has been a pleasant and rewarding one. We are continuing to improve our facility and we invite you and “Rover” to come back to see us. We love to have visitors. We are crazy for photos. And, we want to know every great story. We even want to know when there are “uglies”.
You are invited to take part in the collection of information that helps us to improve our efforts. Without feedback from our customers over the years, the pup you have chosen might very well not have been born. We are all lovers of this breed and it is our responsibility to make certain that it is kept in the truest manner.
I, and my staff, wish you and your pup many happy and healthy years together!
Wilma J. R. Johnson
Breeder – Shewana Shepherds
- The Buyer should have the puppy examined by a licensed veterinarian within 3 working days of purchase. If the Buyer’s Veterinarian should determine that the puppy is not in good health, we will exchange the pup or refund the purchase price in full, if the puppy is safely returned to our kennel immediately. Should the Buyer decide to retain the puppy beyond the three day period, this portion of the guarantee becomes null and void.
- We will replace any puppy found to have debilitating hip dysplasia before 26 months of age, AS DETERMINED BY THE ORTHOPEDIC FOUNDATION FOR ANIMALS (OFA). If the dog’s x-rays are not submitted to the O.F.A. for evaluation, no replacement will be made. All costs for this evaluation are the sole responsibility of the Buyer.
- We will replace any puppy that suffers from any serious congenital or hereditary health defect, such as, blindness, deafness, heart condition, or any crippling or debilitating congenital or hereditary condition confirmed by the Seller’s veterinarian before 26 months of age.
- We will replace any puppy purchased specifically as breeding stock or show quality that develops a disqualifying fault according to the AKC breed standard before 26 months of age. This intended use must be documented on the sales receipt. No exceptions.
- The value of a replacement puppy will be of equal value of the originally purchased puppy. However, if the original pup was purchased for a lesser price, and the customer selects a higher-priced replacement pup, an additional cash payment will be required to obtain the replacement dog. (NOTE: The value of ALL Shewana Shepherd puppies are determined by the Seller.)
LIMITATIONS OF GUARANTEE
This guarantee applies only to the purchaser, as named on the original sales receipt.
This guarantee is non-transferable.
Failure to adhere to the recommended vaccination schedule will nullify this guarantee.
Failure to follow proper feeding instructions, including the use of specific brands of food, will also void this guarantee.
Under no circumstance will the Seller be responsible for any type of veterinarian costs, exams, tests, medical treatments, medications, supplements, etc.
The Seller will not be responsible for any transportation charges of any kind, at any time.
No replacement will be offered until the original pup/dog is received back at the Seller’s kennel with valid AKC registration papers transferring ownership back to the Seller.
No replacement will be made for any condition not confirmed by a licensed Veterinarian of the Seller’s choice.
The Seller retains the option to refund the purchase price of the puppy in lieu of providing a replacement.
This guarantee expires on the 26 month anniversary of the pup’s birth date.
(Please bring this information to your veterinarian!)
LITTER’S SIRE/DAM______________________________________ BORN _______________
VACCINATION SCHEDULE
Date Due / Given:
6 weeks Fort Dodge
DA2P2 ______________________
9 weeks Fort Dodge DA2P2
______________________
14 weeks Fort Dodge DA2P2 ______________________
14 weeks Fort Dodge Canine Bordetella* ______________________
18 weeks Fort Dodge DA2P2 ______________________
18 weeks Rabies Vaccine (required by law) ______________________
We strongly recommend that you have your pup vaccinated with *Paraninfluenza-Bordetella Bronchiseptica*, even if it is the only pet in your home. We have often heard that some vets do not recommend this vaccine when there are no other pets in the home. The problem with this, is that should your pup be out in public places such as the vet office, pet shop, neighbor’s yard, the sidewalk, the park, training class, the groomer, or a boarding kennel, he/she is unprotected. There is a time frame before the vaccine becomes effective in your pup. Check with your veterinarian about this to be sure you have given the vaccine enough time to be able to protect your pup.
WORMING SCHEDULE
Your puppy was de-wormed at 2 weeks with Pyrantel, at 3 weeks with Pyrantel, at 5 weeks with Pyrantel, and at 7 weeks with Pyrantel (or Piperzine). If your pup was still with us at 9 weeks he/she was again de-wormed with Pyrantel (or Piperzine).
In spite of our very aggressive deworming program, we ask that you bring a stool sample (puppy poop) to your vet when you bring your puppy in for his or her check-ups. It is very important to keep your puppy free of all internal parasites!
HEARTWORM
Consult your vet about putting your puppy on a program of heartworm preventative as soon as possible. Heartworm can be a terrible experience for you and your pup. Have your vet thoroughly explain the use of these products. Do not assume you fully understand these preventatives.
NOTE: This vaccination schedule must be adhered to and completed. Not doing so may affect our guarantee.
OUR USE OF CORID
We have been providing a product called Corid in the drinking water of all the dogs on our kennel property for many years. We feel that it has been very effective in preventing the occurrence of coccidia in our pups. We have not had any significant number of calls from our puppy buyers regarding the presence of coccidia in a Shewana puppy. In fact, our records indicate very few pups being diagnosed with the problem. This is remarkable.
We are giving you this information to assist in assessing the cause of puppy diarrhea should this occur after you bring your pup to his/her new home. Most likely, it will not be a coccidia problem and precious time could be wasted by treating for the wrong cause of the stomach upset. It is a commonly held belief that pups purchased from a breeding kennel are prone to exhibiting coccidia. However, we have worked very hard and spent thousands of dollars to prevent this illness in our puppies. We are confident that our track record speaks for itself.
NOTE: All Shewana pups and Dams are raised on Corid to prevent coccidia.
THINKING ABOUT MAKING CHANGES?
Just about any change in a puppy’s life will play some part in causing the pup to stress out. The move to his/her new home is enough on its own. Leaving the familiar surroundings of our kennel, his/her littermates and caretakers is a lot for a young pup to have to deal with in a very short period of time. Please read the handouts we have provided to help you make this transition as pleasant an experience as possible for you and your puppy.
We have raised over 1000 German Shepherd Dog pups!
If you feel that you must change something and do things differently from our instructions, please clear it with us.
We feel so strongly about this that it is our policy to ONLY guarantee pups that have been raised in the manner we have suggested.
The most common problems we experience are the result of:
We have provided a great deal of information to assist and guide you in raising your puppy in the best and most proven manner. Please keep in mind that before you came along, your puppy was our puppy and that we really care about him/her. We want our pups to have the very best that life has to offer. Please know that any call for advice is better than no call at all.
Shewana Shepherds has been breeding the German Shepherd Dog breed for over 30 years! WE ARE GERMAN SHEPHERDS! They are our world! We will never try to tell anyone how to raise a Dalmatian or a Cocker Spaniel. We believe you can’t do better than calling us when seeking the knowledge required to raise a solid, healthy, and happy German Shepherd Dog.
Congratulations on your new puppy! All of us, here at Shewana, wish you the very best.
In order to help you and your pup get off to a good start, we would like to offer you some tidbits and pointers, which we feel will make your pup’s transition to his/her new home go as smoothly as possible.
Please keep in mind that these are only suggestions and some degree of flexibility may be required given each individual situation. No two homes are exactly the same. Still, there are certain things that we know to be helpful in making your experience as the owner of a German Shepherd pup (and adult) more successful. In fact, if raised correctly, your GSD will be the joy of your life!
We have prepared this Tip-Sheet to share with you our experience of raising, nurturing and loving this special breed. My family and I, along with our staff, have a combined experience of over 250 years working with the GSD. We feel this fact alone should qualify us as knowledgeable advisors. We hope you will agree.
Please realize it is very stressful for any young pup to leave its familiar surroundings and lifestyle. Leaving the safe haven of its home in the arms of a new master can be unsettling. Everything will be different. Smells, sounds, touch, etc., are all new. Just because your world feels safe and comfortable to you, does not make it so for your new pup. For the puppy it can be very uncomfortable, if not downright scary.
The confident, outgoing little pup you selected, may exhibit some shyness and/or discomfort. Take advantage of these times to assure him/her that you are going to take care of everything. It’s all ok because he/she is with you!
I often use the example of a person entering an elevator in a high-rise building. None of us feels comfortable when an absolute stranger talks to us, and we certainly don’t want a stranger to touch us.
Now, think about a stranger either putting a collar around your neck, restraining you in some way, or locking you away for any period of time. If that happened, any grown adult would feel uncomfortable and scared. Initially, to your new pup, you are a stranger! It’s your job to teach him/her that you are a most trusted friend.
In almost every case, pups that leave our kennel have lived with their Dams and littermates in a close family group. Their nights are spent cuddling up in a pen with pine shavings on the floor. Their days, depending on the season, are spent in our kitchen, an outdoor playpen, going for walks in our fields, or playing with the humans who are charged with their care and socialization. They have never been in a car, they have never been on a leash, and they have never been to a vet’s office.
Typically, most new owners don’t give any of this a second thought. Those who do are much more sympathetic to the trauma a puppy is experiencing, and they seem to understand that this transition can be overwhelming. Therefore, it is very important to introduce the puppy very slowly and patiently to its new home and the people within.
Be patient, gentle and kind. This is not the time for intense training! Your first job is to earn your puppy’s trust and convince him/her that you are a great human.
LOVE and RESPECT are the keys to OBEDIENCE.
THE "SICK" PUPPY
It is highly unlikely that you were sold a sick pup. However, it is very common for pups to become ill under the stress of change. This is most often exhibited by a pup getting an upset stomach and some degree of diarrhea. Often times the pup does not want to eat, or even to drink. Be patient, give the pup time to settle in and relax. If you can relax, the pup will usually relax, and it will enjoy having its first meal and a drink in no time at all.
The problem arises when they are overexcited or the people around them are anxious too. For some reason, which I cannot understand, some new owners are absolutely certain that the puppy just doesn’t like his/her food and would really prefer some other menu. This makes no sense at all.
Your pup only knows two types of food that exist: 1) its Dam’s milk; and 2) the food we have provided in weaning it from that first food source. Since we actually feed our pups the diet we have provided in your feeding instructions, you can be certain that your pup does indeed eat it. If it didn’t, it would have starved to death and you certainly would not have selected the pup you chose.
Please be patient and follow the feeding instructions. The food your pup is presented is the only constant in its life. Not even the bowl will be the same.
Should your pup seem ill and you feel that there is a problem, please call us. We are able to help in almost every instance. If we can’t, we will certainly advise you to seek your vet’s assistance. We are not veterinarians, so when it comes to a problem that is not just simply normal puppy behavior, we will be the first to tell you to take your pup for an evaluation. Most of the time, if there is a problem, it will be some type of common infection. Seldom, if ever, is it serious.
We are diligent in providing all Dams and their pups with a time-tested preventative for one of the most common causes of diarrhea in puppies, called Coccidia. The product we use is called Corid, and we have had incredibly good luck with it. It has been very effective and since we have included it in our program, we have not experienced any outbreaks of this illness. If you will notice the lower left hand corner of your Vaccination schedule you will see a note regarding this. (You do not need to continue this treatment once your pup is in your care.)
Since not all breeders provide Corid to their dogs, most vets will assume that a puppy from a kennel may have Coccidia, and then they will prescribe medication to treat this common condition. In the case of our pups, we are most concerned that precious time might be wasted in not treating the pup for other possible types of infection. One of these possibilities would be Giardia, which requires a specific course of medication.
The most important concern when a pup becomes ill is dehydration. No matter what is going on with eating, your puppy must be drinking water. The majority of its body is made up of water, and it must keep replenishing itself. This is particularly true if the puppy is on any type of medication. Unless your vet tells you differently, you can take this one to the bank!
FEEDING PHILOSOPHY
Now, here is where we may get into a sticky area, because I often disagree with the advice provided to change a pup’s diet. This, in my opinion, is the very last thing you should change. You may temporarily delete something from the diet, but your pup would be best served if you did not add or change anything. Dogs do not require variety the same way as humans do. In fact, many dogs eat the same food each day for their entire lives and do just fine. Maybe better!
Good quality food is imperative! We cannot stress this enough.
The saying that “You are what you eat” is never truer than when it comes to raising a healthy and strong German Shepherd Dog. This is a hearty breed. They are meant to be workers, and as such, they have bodies that require the fuel to fulfill their destiny. Even if your pup never sees a flock of sheep or a herd of cattle, its body needs to be ready to work. Don’t cheat it.
If you feed your pup as we have instructed, you will see it develop to its full potential in no time. They grow so fast! I suggest you take lots of “baby” pictures. In less than six months, this little pup will be capable of pulling you right off your feet if he/she wants to. (I have been told that a dog can pull 30 pounds for every pound it weighs ---- so we certainly don’t want our pups to outgrow their training)!
Thank you for taking the time to read this. If you follow this advice, both you and your pup will get off to a much better start. If you have any questions, please call us. We are here to help you. No question is silly or dumb. You can be certain that we would much prefer that the answer to your question come from us, rather than your neighbor down the block.
BOWLS:
Please do not purchase feeding bowls made of plastic. The plastic sometimes causes dogs to develop skin lesions when the surface of the bowl becomes worn and rough. This will exhibit itself as an ugly red or pink mark around the lips and nose.
COLLARS:
A fabric or leather collar is recommended. Chain/choke collars should only be used for training and walking outside the home territory. All collars should be properly fitted. Not too big, and definitely not too tight. A two finger comfort zone is perfect. (Prong collars are not cruel – they are actually safer than a choke chain collar – With good training from early on, most Shepherds will not require this degree of control). Important: NEVER LEAVE ANY TYPE OF CHOKE OR PRONG COLLAR on your dog when training session is completed!
LEASHES:
Four to six feet is a good length for a leash. I do not recommend using a super long lead until your pup is fully trained. They need to learn to stay close to you. They have no need of being away from you. (Retractable leashes are absolutely NOT recommended!)
TOYS:
Toys are mandatory! In fact, they can be homemade. Old plastic milk jugs, tennis balls, an old sock with a knot in it, a knotted cotton clothes line, or an old towel can be used. Pups love soft-stuffed animals. Balls, tug toys and squeaky toys are always a favorite. Be sure that NO TOY IS SMALL ENOUGH TO BE SWALLOWED, or brittle enough to break off and cut or choke the puppy.
Chew toys are mandatory! I recommend pressed, natural rawhide bones. NEVER USE the ones with the knots on each end. AND, absolutely no pig ears, snouts, hooves, or artificially flavored bones of any kind.
TREATS:
Treats are to be just that – a treat! I recommend very little use of them. They are unnecessary. Your pup should not even learn about them until serious training has begun. If you feel you must buy them, please use them sparingly!
CRATES:
Crates are beneficial to training your puppy and provide for his comfort and safety. I highly recommend the type of crate used to ship animals on the airlines. These are made of a durable, nonporous, washable, plastic material, and typically have a wired front gate. I have never had an “incident” using one of these plastic crates. I have, however, had some “bad things happen” in those made of wire. Additionally, wire crates are really difficult to keep clean. I am not overly fond of wire crates, except when used as a holding pen under supervision. It is ALWAYS preferred for a dog to have its own crate.
CLEANING & GROOMING SUGGESTIONS
THE PUPPY:
Your puppy should be clean when you picked him/her up from our kennel. It would be best if you did not immediately bathe the pup upon its arrival at the new home (the pup is not entering boot camp). If an accident occurred on the trip home, try to clean him/her with a hand towel moistened in lukewarm water that has a small amount of liquid dish soap added. If this is not possible, a mild soap and water solution may be made up as a bath. Keep the eyes and ears protected. Don’t let the pup drink the soapy water. Dry the puppy thoroughly and keep it warm and free of drafts. (NOTE: German Shepherds do not require constant bathing; with regular grooming they are naturally very clean dogs.)
BOWLS:
We recommend that bowls be washed after EVERY use. This includes the water bowl which can get particularly dirty. A very mild bleach solution is preferred. Be sure to rinse away any soap and/or bleach residue.
TOYS:
Fabric toys should be washed in the washing machine and double rinsed to remove soap residue. We wash other toys and balls in the dishwasher or in the aforementioned mild bleach solution used for feeding equipment.
CRATES:
We have found the cleaning of crates is made very easy if the following techniques are used: a) Use a pad of some type on the bottom to absorb wetness & accidents. Old towels, blankets, and rugs work well. b) Remove any debris and spray with Generic bathroom spray cleaner. Wait 5 or 10 minutes, and wipe down with a damp cloth.
SMELLS:
Odo-Ban which is available at Sam’s Club will deodorize any area your pup soils. You can save yourself a lot of money and aggravation if you use this product.
MAINTENANCE:
Take the time to keep your pup and his equipment clean and you will avoid a lot of unnecessary problems. Brush and comb him regularly and he will look and feel great!
FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY
Of course, your dog must be properly vaccinated and kept free of internal and external parasites, but every day he/she is going to depend on the food and water you provide. You have the opportunity to positively affect your pup’s health and growth by feeding a highly nutritious diet made from quality ingredients. All of our dogs are fed in such a way as to obtain optimum nutrition. Your puppy’s Sire and Dam were raised and maintained using one of the FROMM Family Nutritional Foods formulas.
Accordingly, your puppy was raised on FROMM’s Puppy Gold. The various FROMM formulas, when used appropriately, provide all the nutrition required to develop good muscle, bone and coat. We recommend them highly.
For assistance in finding a FROMM supplier in your area, please call (800) 325-6331. Or, be sure to check their website link on our LINKS PAGE. Please be sure to tell them you have a Shewana pup. It doesn’t help us, but they may be willing to ship the food right to your door if it is necessary.
If it is not possible for you to obtain FROMM products, the only alternative we currently feel comfortable recommending is the EUKANUBA (Large Breed Puppy) formula. We cannot rely on the effectiveness of any other foods we have not used or tested.
RECOMMEND FOODS (listed in the order of preference):
If you have questions, please call us for a recommendation regarding the best choice for you pet.
New products are constantly being developed. Some, no doubt, are quite good. All we ask is that you don’t turn your pup into a test specimen for new, unproven products. If you make the wrong choice, it will be your pup’s health and growth that will suffer the consequences.
Please remember our kennel is breed-specific. We won’t tell you how to raise any other type of dog. WE BREED GERMAN SHEPHERD DOGS! Moreover, having had hundreds of them in our care, we have learned how to best bring them to their full potential.
(NOTE: There is no way for us to keep up with the constant changes in the Pet Food Industry.)
ATTENTION:
Very important! Choosing to feed your Shewana Shepherd any food other than those on this list without our SPECIFIC APPROVAL (in writing) will void our guarantee! These dogs are our specialty ---- no one, not even your vet, knows them better. Please call us if you feel the need to feed your young dog in some other fashion than we recommend. Do not turn your pup into an experiment.
OUR PROVEN RECIPE FOR OPTIMAL GROWTH
The formula for feeding your pup should be carefully maintained. DO NOT CHANGE IT.
Puppies under 10 weeks of age should be fed 3 times per day if possible. Free feeding (food available at all times) is not recommended. After 10 weeks feedings can be reduced to 2 times per day. Start your puppy with about ˝ cup of the dry food floated in warm water and add the following to the bowl:
˝ Can Evaporated Milk (Not regular milk in bottles)
2 TBLSP OF PLAIN YOGURT (Not low-fat)
2 TBLSP OF COTTAGE CHEESE
4 oz. good quality canned beef dog food
As you observe your pup eating, it will be up to you to determine if he/she needs more food. Since we feed pups as a litter we have no way to know exactly how much any particular pup is eating. The best rule is to watch your puppy. If he gobbles it all gone, there’s not enough. If he leaves a lot, there is too much. Once you determine that your pup needs more or less food per portion, you are only to increase the dry feed part of the feeding instructions.
Ideally, your pup will always leave just the least little bit of food in his bowl. Then you know he is completely full. I use the expression “Leave a crust of bread and a pickle on the plate!”
As a breed, German Shepherds are not gluttons. They will eat what they want and leave the rest. Seldom have I ever met a Shepherd who will continually overeat. If they do, it should warrant a trip to your vet. There could be a problem.
As your pup grows and his/her ears stand up, you can gradually eliminate the evaporated milk from its diet, over a two-week period. The yogurt, cottage cheese and meat remain until he/she is full grown (i.e. 18 months for females/24 months for males).
When your pup is full grown, you may change to one of the FROMM adult foods. In addition, you may safely delete the cottage cheese. Yogurt and meat should be permanently maintained in your dog’s diet.
ALL FOOD IS TO BE “FLOATED” FOR THE LIFE OF YOUR DOG!
HINT: Puppies are accustomed to eating in a group setting. Just like us, they like (need) company to enjoy their meal. If your pup doesn’t want to eat when it first arrives, just keep it company for a while. He/she will soon get accustomed to the idea that they are the only one eating from this bowl.
"When it comes to food you can pay for quality, or pay the price!"
FASTING YOUR DOG
It is our opinion that once your dog is full-grown and in good health, an occasional “fast day” with no food being eaten is beneficial. However, use this practice sparingly (e.g. 1-2 days per month).
Water, of course, must always be given daily, WITH NO EXCEPTIONS!
“CLEAN, FRESH WATER MUST BE AVAILABLE TO YOUR PUP AT ALL TIMES!”
We have all heard this rule. The problem is that it makes it impossible to housebreak a young pup. Until your puppy is reliable in that department, I suggest you govern when, and how much, he/she drinks.
A common complaint is that puppies piddle outside, come in, and piddle again. I can tell you that until your pup is a lot older, he/she will have no idea it has to go until it is too late! Please understand that water intake and output are directly related. Since your pup cannot fill his/her own water dish (not just yet), it is your responsibility to monitor the amount of water given.
You will find
housebreaking a lot easier, if you follow this rule:
A dog needs one ounce of water for every one pound it weighs every 24 hours,
give or take a few more ounces to adjust for temperature or activity level.
EXAMPLE:
Puppy weighs 20 pounds. Measure 20 ounces of water plus 6 ounces in a jug
and that is your pup’s water drinking water supply for the day. When
he weighs 35 pounds, you increase to 35 ounces plus 6 ounces and so forth as he
grows. Most people give dogs far more water than they need, or can
utilize. Still, I beg that you use common sense and watch that your pup
always has ENOUGH WATER. It is better to err on the side of “too much”.
We have well water at our farm, and ask that those buyers who live in towns and cities gradually wean their new puppy onto “city water” very carefully. Fluoride and Chlorine are often added, and your pup must get accustomed to these chemicals very slowly. I suggest bottled water at first. Gradually add 1 oz of tap water each day.
EXAMPLE:
7 oz. bottled water 1 oz tap water – second day
6 oz. bottled water 2 oz tap water – third day
5 oz. bottled water 3 oz tap water – fourth day
4 oz. bottled water 4 oz tap water – fifth day
Continue doing this until all the water provided to your pup is plain tap water. If you follow these directions, any time your pup’s water supply changes, you will avoid a lot of problems.
Also, we always offer warm drinking water to our puppies (room temperature) so they won’t become chilled (i.e. get a “cold rush”).
ICE COLD WATER WILL GIVE YOUR PUPPY STOMACH CRAMPS!
Take your puppy out at 2-hour intervals. Remain outside with your pup until he/she has finished their task. Be sure to praise the puppy warmly for their “good deeds". It is best to feed your pup on a rigid schedule, so you can judge when it is actually “ready and able” to go out to toilet.
As a rule, your puppy should go out:
With housebreaking, good timing and praise are a thousand times more effective than punishment, so be very patient and buy lots of paper towels.
"Good luck with your new puppy!
We wish you many years of devotion and
happiness together."
We realize that bringing home a new puppy can be both exciting and nerve-racking. One moment, you are extremely happy with your puppy and the next moment you feel as though you do not know what to do. This is normal. Therefore, Shewana Shepherds is here to help you with the issues you are unsure of, no matter how great or small. We are dedicated to making your experience with you new puppy joyous and rewarding. So, we encourage you to remember:
If you have any questions, problems or concerns…
PLEASE CALL US RIGHT AWAY!
Wilma Johnson,
Owner / Breeder / Sales
Cell Phone:
(815) 403-6083
General Information
(847) 767-0096
Boarding or Training Classes
(815) 451-DOGS
Email:
shewana@sbcglobal.net
Now that you have read through our manual, we hope you have a much better understanding of your puppy and his/her needs. If for some reason you find that we have not answered a particular question, please do not hesitate to contact us.
We also encourage you to read through the “THE SHEWANA EXPERIENCE” for a very informative look on how to raise and enjoy your puppy. You may find your question answered there.
Until the entire recommended vaccination schedule is completed at 18 weeks, and for two additional weeks (i.e. 20-weeks old) your puppy is not fully protected from many serious infectious diseases. Some of these diseases require physical contact, and others are airborne. We ask that you be cautious.
When you take your puppy to the vet, please remember that you are in a “hospital” where you can expect to find all manner of illnesses. Hence, protect your puppy by not setting him or her down on the floor.
Watch how your pup is examined. Be sure it is a thorough checkup. Eyes, ears, mouth, teeth, lungs, heart, legs, feet, skin, and coat should be part of a first time puppy exam. A stool sample should be provided to verify the absence of worms or parasites.
Our staff is dedicated to providing the most handsome/beautiful, healthy pups possible to each and every one of our buyers. We would never knowingly sell a puppy that we feel to be suspect in any way. Should your vet find a problem, or have some concern, please let us know as soon as possible so that we can discuss a solution.
Once again, thank you for choosing Shewana Shepherds!
“Creating new life is not an exact science.”
"Thank you for reading through our Puppy Manual.
We know that it will help you and your pup
to get off to a good start. Please keep it handy
so you can refer to it when something comes up.
Remember, don’t hesitate to call or contact us.
We are all here to help."
20420 Windy Hill Road / Harvard, IL 60033 / Phone: 815-943-2020 / Fax: 815-943-0878 / Email: shewana@sbcglobal.net
SHEWANA SHEPHERDS
"Where
only the best and the brightest are bred...
We guarantee it!"